| Step 1 - Cut wood blanks
From 7/8" or larger square stock cut blanks to the length of the
tubes plus 1/8". Grain should run lengthwise.
Step 2 - Drill the wood blanks
Bore a centered hole lengthwise through each blank. Drill carefully since
excessive pressure may cause the drill bit to wander and/or split the
blank. Slow the feed rate and back the bit out repeatedly for chip removal.
For best results - use a 19/32" HSS drill bit.
Step 3 - Glue the tubes into the blanks
Apply epoxy or a gap filling cyanoacrylate (super glue) to the tube and
insert into the blank with a twisting motion. This will spread the glue
evenly. Center the tube within the blank and allow to dry.
Step 4 - Square the ends
With a disc sander or other sanding device, square the ends of the blanks
90 degrees to the length of the brass tubes as needed.
Step 5 - Turn the wood blanks
Install the blank on a turning mandrel with the appropriate bushing on
each side. Tighten the nut snugly and bring the tailstock center firmly
against the end of the mandrel. Turn or file the diameter down to any
shape that your creativity dictates. For best results, tum the ends of
the tubes down to be slightly larger than the diameter of the bushings.
Step 6 - Sand
As with any sanding, progress through a range of grits. The type of wood
used and the quality of the beginning surface will dictate your selection:
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- 80-100 grits if rough surface or additional shaping is needed (overly
thick)
- 120-150 grits if fairly smooth and straight
- 220-240 for final finish with most domestic woods and the bottom
of the long blank.
- 320-400 especially on dense or oily exotic woods
- Scotch Brite@ is helpful as it doesn't tend to scratch.
Sand with blank spinning. For initial shaping, stick a piece of sandpaper
on a board slightly narrower than each tube and use it to remove any hills
or valleys. Final sanding with the grain (lathe off). To obtain a flush
fit with the hardware, sand to the exact diameter of the bushings (21/32").
A little heavier look is possible by leaving more material.
Step 7 - Finish
Try a finish of your choice but be careful if brushing on a poly, etc.
you can stick the tube, bushings, and mandrel together. The following
friction polish works well on most woods:
1/3 wood alcohol (methanol), 1/3 white or clear shellac, 1/3 boiled
linseed oil.
Mix equal parts of the three ingredients in a bottle and shake before
using. Apply with a rag to the spinning blank. Keep the rag in contact
with the wood to build up heat, thus sealing the finish. Apply two coats.
Step 8 - Touch up
With the blanks off the mandrel, lay them end to end, to decide which
sets will look best when assembled. Remember, they will be 3/32"
apart (due to the coupling) so minor differences won't show. If necessary,
a light sanding of the ends on a block will square the ends and improve
the fit during assembly.
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